This happens typically when the car is started up and only moved a short distance. There was a recall to recalibrate the PCM, plus a revised leading spark plug number mentioned in this TSB , however the problem still persists in some cars that have had theses updates. Lack of compression can be detected by the sound of the engine turning over far too easily and the tell tale higher pitch sound as it turns over.
Even after spark plugs are removed, the chamber aired out and fresh plugs are installed…without compression the engine will simply NOT start. Make sure the highest cranking amp battery is acquired — extra cranking power could make the difference.
Continued attempts to try to start the engine with one to two second intervals is likely to further flood and aggravate the situation! Attempt to start the car up to three times. Allow the engine to crank for a maximum of eight seconds.
Allow a minimum of three seconds between tries. The starter motor must be allowed some cool down time. Depress and hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank the engine for seconds. This will clear out unburned fuel from the combustion chamber.
Release the accelerator pedal and start the engine. Keep it running and allow the smoke to subside. A: Rotary engines are designed to use some oil, in fact they have an oil metering pump that injects oil into the engine to provide lubrication for the apex, side and corner seals of the combustion chambers.
Similar to two stroke engines that inject oil instead of having oil pumped throughout the engine remember there are no valves, lifters, etc.
Old Rx7 engines injected oil into the carburetors, directly into the engine. This would result in excessive deposits on the rotors and rotor housings that could lead to engine failure. Be aware that continuing to crank the engine over repeatedly could really heat up the cable going to the starter.
I would recommend using a low or medium setting on the charger and keep a fan on top of the engine blowing down toward the starter.
Can I add some oil somehow to increase compression enough to try to start it? A: Yes, see the white paper pdf , courtesy of Mazda. Linking: Please reference this auto repair article when quoting, linking to this page is welcomed and appreciated. If you are new to linking a page.
Left click the link; to highlight 2. Step 2 Release the accelerator pedal and start the engine. Attempt to start your Mazda up to three times, turning your key and allowing your engine to crank for no more than eight seconds but not less than three. Wait at least three seconds before trying again. Warming the engine prior to turning it off will help prevent future flooding.
Once the engine starts, let it run to make sure the engine has warmed before turning it off. Purchase a battery with the highest cranking amp. Extra cranking power can keep your engine from flooding. As stated above, if on the occasion you have to stop and start the car from cold, simply blipping the engine to 4K and turning it off at the top of the revs allows the engine to clear any excess fuel without introducing any more.
Its a great car, very cheap, but open to critisism from ignorant people who have never owned one. Toecutter posts months. I thought all RX8's affected by the flooding issue had their ECU re-programmed by the dealers to stop this precise problem, I was told this by a mate who owns an RX8.
Check the ownersclub. Not entirely directly related but my rx7 used to do this and the solution was just to install a manual fuel pump cutoff switch.
If it flooded, you just switched off the fuel and spun it over till it started, then switch back on the fuel, and you could also pre-empt it by cutting the fuel supply to stop the engine rather than cutting the ignition. In my case it was just a symptom of a high mileage k miles engine but the fix would work here equally.
I was told of the flooding issue by a dealer when I bought mine, had it a month but not a single problem starting it. Have done the on off the drive etc. Fantastic car if you don't mind the mpg. Go for it. Mave 7, posts months. Same with my RX7 - never any problem if I drive it around the block; if it's really cold, and I need to move it from garage to drive, I let it idle for a minute or so.
Pulling the fuse to the fuel pump helps if you do flood it, just crank it over a bit, replace the fuse, and start as normal. I know it revs to 9 or 10k depending on model, but 7k is still too high surely, even if it isn't under load in neutral it is still revving to the higher end of the rev range with cold, thick oil!
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