The class system is alive and well in England. If you compare morning dress to the magnificent Highland dress, which is worn in Scotland on formal occasions, you do not make a class assumption when you see a gentleman in a kilt, but morning dress reeks of privilege.
But good quality morning dress is thriving and there are so many ways that you can, tastefully, play with conventions. The standard coat has a peaked lapel, but tailor Antonia Ede suggests a rarely seen notch lapel as an absolutely correct and elegant change of pace. The three-piece morning suit in matching grey has been fashionable since the s and there is often some confusion as to when it can be worn. The process: It take two to four months to have a bespoke morning suit made, and usually requires three fittings.
The morning suit dress code can often look patchy, mismatched and clumsy. Constructed from grey wool sharkskin and cut with peaked lapels, it comes with a double-breasted waistcoat and trousers that will give your outfit a stylish uniformity. For a sharp morning suit, try the tailored, sweeping lines of a Hackett navy coat, subtly contrasted with a pair of black suit trousers. The coat jacket comes with decadent peak lapels and is constructed from a wool and mohair blend, meaning it will be a stylish formalwear partner for many years to come.
The black Seaton pure cashmere morning coat really is the way to go, if possible. Emma Willis started shirtmaking in and opened a Jermyn Street shop with her name above the door ten years later. As a rule, Willis asks customers buying bespoke shirts to make a minimum order of three at a time, but she gives special dispensation to bridegrooms, allowing them to purchase a single piece especially for their big day.
Fit is paramount. The shoulder seams should lie at the edge of your shoulders, the collar should sit around the neck but not squeeze, and the cuffs should fall to just above the hand. The value of going bespoke is that all that will be guaranteed.
Opt for a spread collar. Stay cool. Go for a raised placket for formality. A crisp white shirt is traditional, but if you have olive skin or dark hair you could opt for ivory instead. A pale blue shirt is also acceptable. To have a shirt made at Emma Willis, you first need to book a minute appointment with her at the Jermyn Street shop.
She will guide you through the options and take your measurements so her team in Gloucestershire can get cutting and stitching. Cynically speaking, this cut is much cheaper to produce, though it is also better suited to modern tastes and possibly more comfortable in the blazing sun of a summer wedding. The most common morning coat configuration is black, usually herringbone weave, with a single button closure and peaked lapels cumbersomely called a double-breasted lapel in the UK, for no good reason.
Edward VIII, fashion icon, abdicator and Nazi sympathiser, is wearing this configuration in virtually all photographs of him in morning dress. Indeed, it is the style which has persisted to the present day and, unfortunately, you will be hard pressed to find anything straying from this at any contemporary menswear retailers. That said, it does look bloody good:. The Duke of Windsor and some woman on their Wedding Day.
Earlier morning coats generally varied much more, with different lapels, colours and button configurations, and many of these variations will be explored below. Today, the most commonly seen divergeance from the norm is the grey morning coat. A dark oxford grey can be worn as if black, with the appropriate accompanying waistcoat and trousers , though these are rarely encountered.
The effect of oxford grey is to soften the overall appearance of the outfit when compared with true black:. Morning coat by Knize in oxford grey, featuring a horrendous silver ascot tie.
Lighter grey morning coats are also available, and these are generally worn as a complete matching suit. In the vast majority of cases the trousers and waistcoat match, though it is not unheard of for a contrasting waistcoat to be worn.
The Prince of Wales in matching greys with the Duke of Edinburgh in greys with contrasting waistcoat. Generally speaking, a peaked lapel is an indicator of formality. Notched or step, or single-breasted lapels do exist on morning coats, though they were much more common when frock coats were still in circulation, as they were considered a less formal alternative. What Is Morning Dress? Morning Suit Shirt White or light-colored shirt with French cuffs and a turndown collar are acceptable.
Morning Dress Waistcoat Buff, dove grey, or duck egg blue in single- or double-breasted, with double-breasted being more popular. Vests should not be backless. Morning Suit Ties A woven silk tie is the standard, with solids or fancy neats being preferable. Morning Dress Shoes Highly polished black calfskin oxfords , cap-toes , or even smart slipons such as Venetian loafers.
Accessories A grey or black top hat is worn for racing events but is generally carried otherwise. What Next? What To Wear At Weddings? About The Author — Paul Anthony. Paul is a the founder and creative director of Bespoke Unit. His interests range from: suits, shoes, watches, sport, and travel.
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